Quark Expeditions: Antarctica, Day 4

Monday, 18/12/2023

Location: Lemaire Channel, Peterman Island, on the World Explorer

Agenda: Visiting penguins on Petermann Island, visiting iceberg graveyard on Zodiacs, and the Polar Plunge!

Lemaire Channel

In the morning, I woke up earlier than usual and joined the few early risers in the observation lounge to witness us going through the infamous Lemaire Channel. The Lemaire Channel had been blocked up with ice for the whole season, and it was foggy, and it looked like icebergs were blocking it up. Thankfully, our amazing captain thought it was okay to go through, so he very carefully and slowly navigated us through the foggy, extremely narrow channel. On either side, tall mountain cliffs and glaciers rose up, making it seem like we were sailing through a trench. The end did have icebergs in it, but not too many. Our expedition was the first of the season to make it through the channel!!

On The Other Side

On the other side, we cruised to Pettermann Island near the Kyiv peninsula and the Vernadsky base. The Vernadsky base is the Antarctic base that Ukraine bought from the British for one British pound. The British really did not want the base, and the Ukrainians wanted a base but could not build one, so they got one almost for free.

Petermann Island has a penguin colony and a Chilean hut for emergencies, but the hut has been overridden by penguins, so we could not go see it. The place where we landed was a small rocky “beach” big enough for two Zodiacs side by side. There were penguins everywhere! The guides made trails through the snow up to the main penguin nesting spots, and we trudged up perfect snow hills to see them.

Are Penguins Actually Cute?

Everyone says penguins are super cute, and I think they are mistaken. In my opinion, antarctic penguins do not look cute. They have beady little eyes and are covered in their own poop. The smallest penguin, however, is very cute. The little blue penguin is the only one that is cute, and it’s not in Antarctica. I saw some in New Zealand but only for a few moments. These Adelie penguins on Petermann Island were funny, not cute. They go around trying to make nests for their mates by piling up rocks. Antarctica naturally does not have many small rocks, so penguins just go around stealing rocks. I watched a single penguin go around his group, trying to find rocks but resorting to stealing. Meanwhile, his mate was protecting their nest from a greedy neighbor who repeatedly tried to steal the same rock, only to be fended off by loud penguin squawks.

After Peterman Island

After Petermann Island, we did not get to cruise around in Zodiacs; we just went back to the ship. On the ship, I had lunch and worked on felting penguins to pass the time. We were heading to an iceberg graveyard. You might be wondering, what is an iceberg graveyard??? It is an area with a bunch of grounded icebergs. They don’t move, and it does look rather eerie.

Ice Berg Zodiac Cruising

In the graveyard, we carefully cruised around because it was very shallow. Our guide was Shasha (Alexander), and he got us to a seal! This seal was just lying on the ice, totally chill. Seals have very chill lives, they eat fish and krill and lay around all day sleeping. This seal took the trouble to wave at us and lift its head, but then it went back to sleep. There were no clusters of penguins, but we found a single penguin trying to fish in a foot of water. It just stood there, dove down, then came back up to stare at the water. It looked very sad. On our way back to the ship, we rounded a corner and encountered some whales hanging out, logging by some zodiacs. Everyone was silent, just watching them, and it was very beautiful.

Polar Plunge

Who would go to Antarctica, be offered to do the polar plunge, and turn it down?? Me. I was sadly the only one in my family who did not get into the -7 degrees Celsius water. I don’t like jumping into ocean water, and if it’s freezing water, I definitely didn’t want to do it. I greatly enjoyed seeing my sister be the first one on the whole ship to get in the water! One after the next, my family went. Almost 80 passengers went, and the best part was hearing their surprised yelp of “It’s cold!!!” or “It’s salty!!” Alot of people were surprised that it was salty. lol

After my family went, I raced down to the mudroom to greet them, and I saw a lot of people lined up in white bathrobes, waiting to jump willingly into freezing water. I don’t understand it! I would not put myself through that. Alas, I will probably regret it later in life…

Lemaire Channel, Again

The rest of the day was spent on dinner, relaxing, and drinking a lot of cocoa. All of that is very uninteresting, though. So, I get to tell you about the night time Lemaire Channel. In the morning, when we went through, it was foggy, cold, rainy, and not very majestic. In the night, however… I will let the following picture do the talking

How insane does this look?? The water was like glass, and there was a gentle mist on the tops of the mountains. Everything was perfectly quiet, and it was not too cold, so everyone was outside. It was just so breathtaking!! I can’t get over the moments I spent staring at this mountain, open-mouthed, silent in awe.

That’s what Antarctica does to you. It makes you stop and stare at the world as if it’s your first sight of it because it is just so beautiful!

Here are the pictures from today! Enjoy!

Expedition: Rotorua, New Zealand

I never thought that I could do so much in 36 hours, but somehow I did. Yesterday around ten thirty we made plans to drive two hours to Rotorua. Rotorua is a small town on the North Island of New Zealand, and it has many tourist attractions and cool things. In under an hour, we were in the car. The drive was scenic and filled with the book’s endurance and pauses to discuss what we wanted to do. I had been voting to go to Rotorua for a week because there is Zorbing, Louging, Zip lining, and many more cool activities. almost everyone did not want to go Zorbing, but 12 minutes out from our Airbnb (booked not long before), we passed the Zorbing place, and we immediately turned around to check it out.

Zorb Rotorua

You are probably wondering what is zorbing. Zorbing is an activity where you jump into I huge plastic ball that is suspended by ropes (secure ones) inside another plastic ball that is bigger. There is water in the ball, and the workers zip you inside, and the next thing you know, you are rolling down a hill, not knowing what is up or down and feeling like you’re in a washing machine. At the bottom, you slide out and run to hot tubs and wait for the next bus to take you back to the top to do it again. Honestly, Zorbing is one of the funnest, craziest things to do. The zorbing place has four tracks, three of which are currently in use. The short straight one is a “short” straight track that you roll down. they have two of these tracks, but they are exactly the same. We (Me, Mom, Emmy, Zeb, and Bardez) did this one first, and since there are two of the straight tracks right next to each other, we raced. The straight track was my least favorite out of the two that I did because it is super fast and disorienting because you are just rolling and rolling and rolling. It was still super fun, though, and it’s a great one to start on if you have never been zorbing. The Sidewinder track is my favorite because you roll straight, then you turn and roll up onto the banks. then right at the top, you stop, just for a second, and then down you go again! The two other tracks I did not do, but there is the MEGA which is a SUPER long straight steep hill. Then there is the BIG AIR which was under construction when I was there. It was being transformed into a new track because only one person could ride down due to the big bumps. I hope the next time I come to New Zealand, I will get to Zorb again and do the BIG AIR track. (They are going to rename the BIG AIR track once it is re-built, but the name is a super secret.)

Te Puia

After Zorbing and dropping our stuff off at our Airbnb, we went to our dinner and show at Te Puia. Te Puia is a Geothermal hot spot with some of New Zealand’s most active Geothermal Guysers. It also is home to the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute which is a school of Maori Arts and Crafts. We signed up for a dinner and a Maori show. The dinner was a buffet in a big dining room with shared tables and fantastic views of the springs and geysers. The food was absolutely amazing. It was by a long shot the best buffet ever. After dinner, everyone was moved to a bit open-air building with circular tables and a stage. I thought that the show was taking place there, but I was wrong. I was not totally sure what to expect, but when our host went up and explained what we would do that night, I became more excited. He had selected an older man from the audience to be our “chief,” and that man (named Bob, I think) was to accept the peace offering from the performers. We were told that the most important thing was to NOT smile, laugh, or make any noise during the first dance. The first dance was usually performed when two tribes met, and during it, the tribe who was visiting would place a peace offering in front of the chief of the opposite tribe. If the chief picked it up, he wanted no fighting and accepted the peace. If he ignored it, that meant fighting.

It started raining right before we headed out of the first building, so instead of the dance and other performances taking place on the wide lawn, we went into a second building that was hand-carved and very ornate. Inside, it was dimly lit, and the walls were covered in carvings. For about thirty minutes, we sat and watched the dancers. One man played a guitar while four other men danced, and five women danced. They all sang, and the sound was so beautiful and filled with joy. The women had strings, with white balls on the end, that they would swing through the air to make a beat to the music. Each dance they performed was full of life and extremely beautiful. When it was over, it was Extremely rainy. Like, pouring rain. We were given the option of going to see the geysers via train (not a normal train like a trailer but not a trailer. (They call them trains) Me and Bardez wanted to see the geysers, and I did not mind getting wet to walk to the train. It was dusk by now, and the geysers were illuminated by purple lights. It was also very cold, so even more steam was in the air. It was super beautiful and standing in by the hot rocks and letting the clouds of vapor and steam roll around me was just amazing. It was like being in fog or a cloud, but in fog, it is super thin and cold, and in a cloud, it is thick and cold. The funny thing is that on the airplane ride into Auckland, I was watching the clouds fly by, and I made a wish to go into a cloud someday. Not in an airplane inside a cloud or on the ground inside a cloud, but really, inside a cloud. We stayed by the geysers for what felt like 45 minutes, but I was not sure of the time.

Redwood Tree Walk

When we got back to the car, Mom told us about a redwood tree walk. Yes, Redwoods in New Zealand. It was nearing 9:00 pm but I was still game for more adventures. It turned out to be a two-hour adventure of waiting in line. The tree walk is a magical experience, but it comes with a cost. You have to wait in line for a very long time. But the good news is, it’s totally worth it! you walk up a wooden ramp 20m into the air and travel from tree to tree along suspended wooden bridges. The trees are lit up by beautiful hand-crafted lights at each tree platform. At each tree there is a sign talking about the trees and the lights and the California redwoods. The night walk was literally a perfect thing to polish off the day. We did not get a ton of sleep because of early classes, but I definitely never did so many fun things in a day!